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A Couple of Walla Walla Winos
Jeff and I had been planning for weeks, nay months, to make a weekend trip out to Walla Walla Washington in order to sample the excellent local wines and relax in the quaint downtown. After a couple of failed attempts and conflicting schedules we finally managed to throw a couple bags in the car and roar out of town.
As we cross the Cascades winter is starting to show her frosty fingertips on the pine trees and rugged mountaintops. Fortunately the pass is clear, we don't need chains on the tires, and we zoom over the mountains and into eastern Washington - which looks remarkably like the Southwest - minus the red clay soil.
Unfortunately we started a little late and the drive took a little longer than we expected, so by the time we hit Walla Walla it's just turning 5 o'clock and the vineyard tasting rooms are closing for the night. Insert primal scream here. OK - change of plan - we head directly to the hotel and decide to get an early dinner. Walla Walla has one of the nicer La Quintas (of course, you just *knew* it was going to be a La Quinta, right?) I've stayed at with an indoor pool and jacuzzi, fitness room and a microwave & mini fridge in the room - in addition to the usual free breakfast and wifi. Seriously, if you're in Walla Walla - stay here!
My friend Jeff is an amazing person. Tall, handsome, intelligent, kind, gracious, generous, easy-going, fun and adventureous... it's no wonder he makes friends so easily. He knows people everywhere we go - including Walla Walla! At his friend's recommendation we decide to try Brasserie Four, a new French-style bistro in downtown on East Main Street. I was hopeful, but not holding my breath, about what we might find. The reviews on Yelp were fantastic, however, and as soon as we found it (although it's on Main Street there's no sign and since it was dark outside and dark in the restaurant it took us a few minutes to realize exactly where it was) I knew I would like it. A simply decorated open floor plan with tealights twinkling everywhere, the fact that it was a little *too* dimly lit was made up for by the fact that it was so warm and cozy. All the tables were reserved, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise, since there was room at the bar.
After just a couple minutes perusing the menu I knew I wanted to sample absolutely everything available. After meeting Chris, our bartender/waiter, I was in even more of a pickle because the specials he listed off sounded amazing as well. When he told us the soup du jour was made with duck stock I almost fell off my bar stool. Yes! Yes! Yes! Thank god in heaven - YES! No, it's not because the stock was duck versus chicken or beef - it's because it had to mean, it simply had to mean that they made it themselves. Why? Well for one thing duck stock isn't exactly a standard item you can get trucked in by Sysco. For another, one of their standard menu items is a confit of duck so you know they're getting in the actual waterfowl and breaking it down and then utilizing the bones for stock. Plus, one of the other specials was a duck pate a la Normande so I'm thinking, "hells yeah! This place is using it all!" For me, this speaks to the kind of chef that runs the kitchen - resourceful and strategic and knowledgable. It times skill to know how to make your own stock and it takes the kind of person who truly loves and cares about food and their profession to want to take the time to make it. I was practically laughing with delight.
We pretty much knew by that wonderful symbiosis that good, longtime friendships create that we would be sharing whatever we ordered so after a brief discussion we settled on the soup du jour, the appetizer special, steak frites and confit du canard. Jeff actually applauded as we ordered. It was awesome. Let's discuss:
The soup du jour was a celeriac and turnip puree with the aformentioned duck stock as the base. It arrived with a garnish of chopped dill. We added a bit more salt and I found it to be creamy without being overly rich, satisfyingly warm on a cold night, and tasty - but not overly exciting. I could taste both turnip and celeriac, but overall the flavor could be described as subtle, almost timid. It was good - but not a "wow!"
The appetizer special was the duck pate a la Normande. Made with Calvados it arrived in a small ramekin with a generous portion of fresh baked sliced baguette. The plate was garnished with chestnut honey, which I intensely disliked, gherkins, pickled onions, whole grain mustard and apple slices. It was a wonderful presentation but the mustard was completely unnecessary, as were the pickled onions. I'm thinking perhaps an apple and Walla Walla onion chutney might have been better. But the pate. Omigod, the pate. Rich, creamy, sweet and earthy. It came with a layer of congealed duck fat on top and if I have any criticism of it at all it would be to say that the liver had been a bit overprocessed with the liquid so that the result was a little soupy. I would have liked to see a slightly denser emulsion. The flavors, however, were perfect. It did exactly what an excellent pate should do - namely - make me close my eyes and moan with delight.
While we had been reviewing the wine list I had gathered a few thoughts for pairings which I discussed with Chris. Not only was Chris extremely well versed in the menu and wine list, as we chatted it came to light that he is also a cook and a graduate of the CIA. He moved to Walla Walla with his girlfriend, an oenophile, and wasn't able to find work cooking so he took the position of server/bartender at Brasserie Four. I was sorry for him, but extremely pleased for us as his food and wine knowledge were much appreciated. Chris and I agreed that our first course should be paired with a glass of the Delmas Blanquette de Limoux.
I was especially pleased when he brought out a fresh, cold bottle to open. It's earthy, mineral notes were absolutely perfect with our earthy root vegetable soup and the effervescent sweetness cut the richness of the pate just the right degree. If I were a Walla Walla resident I could easily see myself coming in regularly for a bowl of soup, some pate and a glass of Delmas Blanquette de Limoux.
Following our first course Chris took a moment to allow us to sample a couple of reds to choose for our main course. I was pleased to see he brought out the College Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, which I had been eyeing. This is a wine made by the local community college. Some people might turn their noses up at a wine made by a community college, but you wouldn't if you knew that Walla Walla's CC not only has degrees in agri-business and culinary arts, but viticulture and enology! (Side note - why oh why oh why did I not follow my passions sooner in life? I've spent the evening with romantic fantasies of staying in eastern Washington and pursuing enology among the burgeoning wine industry here. But alas, if Thom won't move to Seattle he definitely wouldn't move to Walla Walla and one must make difficult decisions when one decides to join oneself to another. Although I am still young(ish) youth is no longer on my side. George Bernard Shaw was right, damn it!!!!!). We sampled the 2005 vintage. He also poured us a taste of the Trust Syrah. Both Jeff and I prefered the cabernet for drinking, but agreed that the syrah would go very well with the steak frites - particularly as we chose the peppercorn cognac sauce to go with the steak.
Then the entrees themselves arrived. Oh happy day! The steak was cooked medium rare, sliced and fanned on the plate next to a gorgeous pile of crispy thin fries doused in parsley and salt. The beef was tender and flavorful and really - how can you go wrong with meat and potatoes? Delicious.
The duck was a revelation. Buttery white beans with sauteed chantrelles topped by a duck leg and thigh that was absolutely falling off the bone. The skin was cooked crispy, which had rendered out the fat, and I let Jeff have that choice little tidbit. I soon discovered that the fries were especially food-coma-inducing when run through the duck sauce and topped with a bit of chantrelle. The wines were a wonderful match. As we got to the bottom of the plates all I could think was, "devo fare la scarpetta!" which is the Italian expression for sopping up a wonderful sauce with bread. So we ordered another plate of bread - which arrived warm - yum! and literally ate til we could eat no more.
Instead of dessert we picked up a bottle of Fogeron Semillion, a dessert wine produced by a local winery, and headed back to the hotel where we just in time for the complimentary warm chocolate chip cookies. We smuggled our treats down the hall to the hot tub and relaxed with our semillion and chocolate. I doubt the evening could have turned out as perfect, lovely and serendipitious if we had planned it.
As we cross the Cascades winter is starting to show her frosty fingertips on the pine trees and rugged mountaintops. Fortunately the pass is clear, we don't need chains on the tires, and we zoom over the mountains and into eastern Washington - which looks remarkably like the Southwest - minus the red clay soil.
Unfortunately we started a little late and the drive took a little longer than we expected, so by the time we hit Walla Walla it's just turning 5 o'clock and the vineyard tasting rooms are closing for the night. Insert primal scream here. OK - change of plan - we head directly to the hotel and decide to get an early dinner. Walla Walla has one of the nicer La Quintas (of course, you just *knew* it was going to be a La Quinta, right?) I've stayed at with an indoor pool and jacuzzi, fitness room and a microwave & mini fridge in the room - in addition to the usual free breakfast and wifi. Seriously, if you're in Walla Walla - stay here!
My friend Jeff is an amazing person. Tall, handsome, intelligent, kind, gracious, generous, easy-going, fun and adventureous... it's no wonder he makes friends so easily. He knows people everywhere we go - including Walla Walla! At his friend's recommendation we decide to try Brasserie Four, a new French-style bistro in downtown on East Main Street. I was hopeful, but not holding my breath, about what we might find. The reviews on Yelp were fantastic, however, and as soon as we found it (although it's on Main Street there's no sign and since it was dark outside and dark in the restaurant it took us a few minutes to realize exactly where it was) I knew I would like it. A simply decorated open floor plan with tealights twinkling everywhere, the fact that it was a little *too* dimly lit was made up for by the fact that it was so warm and cozy. All the tables were reserved, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise, since there was room at the bar.
After just a couple minutes perusing the menu I knew I wanted to sample absolutely everything available. After meeting Chris, our bartender/waiter, I was in even more of a pickle because the specials he listed off sounded amazing as well. When he told us the soup du jour was made with duck stock I almost fell off my bar stool. Yes! Yes! Yes! Thank god in heaven - YES! No, it's not because the stock was duck versus chicken or beef - it's because it had to mean, it simply had to mean that they made it themselves. Why? Well for one thing duck stock isn't exactly a standard item you can get trucked in by Sysco. For another, one of their standard menu items is a confit of duck so you know they're getting in the actual waterfowl and breaking it down and then utilizing the bones for stock. Plus, one of the other specials was a duck pate a la Normande so I'm thinking, "hells yeah! This place is using it all!" For me, this speaks to the kind of chef that runs the kitchen - resourceful and strategic and knowledgable. It times skill to know how to make your own stock and it takes the kind of person who truly loves and cares about food and their profession to want to take the time to make it. I was practically laughing with delight.
We pretty much knew by that wonderful symbiosis that good, longtime friendships create that we would be sharing whatever we ordered so after a brief discussion we settled on the soup du jour, the appetizer special, steak frites and confit du canard. Jeff actually applauded as we ordered. It was awesome. Let's discuss:
The soup du jour was a celeriac and turnip puree with the aformentioned duck stock as the base. It arrived with a garnish of chopped dill. We added a bit more salt and I found it to be creamy without being overly rich, satisfyingly warm on a cold night, and tasty - but not overly exciting. I could taste both turnip and celeriac, but overall the flavor could be described as subtle, almost timid. It was good - but not a "wow!"
The appetizer special was the duck pate a la Normande. Made with Calvados it arrived in a small ramekin with a generous portion of fresh baked sliced baguette. The plate was garnished with chestnut honey, which I intensely disliked, gherkins, pickled onions, whole grain mustard and apple slices. It was a wonderful presentation but the mustard was completely unnecessary, as were the pickled onions. I'm thinking perhaps an apple and Walla Walla onion chutney might have been better. But the pate. Omigod, the pate. Rich, creamy, sweet and earthy. It came with a layer of congealed duck fat on top and if I have any criticism of it at all it would be to say that the liver had been a bit overprocessed with the liquid so that the result was a little soupy. I would have liked to see a slightly denser emulsion. The flavors, however, were perfect. It did exactly what an excellent pate should do - namely - make me close my eyes and moan with delight.
While we had been reviewing the wine list I had gathered a few thoughts for pairings which I discussed with Chris. Not only was Chris extremely well versed in the menu and wine list, as we chatted it came to light that he is also a cook and a graduate of the CIA. He moved to Walla Walla with his girlfriend, an oenophile, and wasn't able to find work cooking so he took the position of server/bartender at Brasserie Four. I was sorry for him, but extremely pleased for us as his food and wine knowledge were much appreciated. Chris and I agreed that our first course should be paired with a glass of the Delmas Blanquette de Limoux.
I was especially pleased when he brought out a fresh, cold bottle to open. It's earthy, mineral notes were absolutely perfect with our earthy root vegetable soup and the effervescent sweetness cut the richness of the pate just the right degree. If I were a Walla Walla resident I could easily see myself coming in regularly for a bowl of soup, some pate and a glass of Delmas Blanquette de Limoux.
Following our first course Chris took a moment to allow us to sample a couple of reds to choose for our main course. I was pleased to see he brought out the College Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, which I had been eyeing. This is a wine made by the local community college. Some people might turn their noses up at a wine made by a community college, but you wouldn't if you knew that Walla Walla's CC not only has degrees in agri-business and culinary arts, but viticulture and enology! (Side note - why oh why oh why did I not follow my passions sooner in life? I've spent the evening with romantic fantasies of staying in eastern Washington and pursuing enology among the burgeoning wine industry here. But alas, if Thom won't move to Seattle he definitely wouldn't move to Walla Walla and one must make difficult decisions when one decides to join oneself to another. Although I am still young(ish) youth is no longer on my side. George Bernard Shaw was right, damn it!!!!!). We sampled the 2005 vintage. He also poured us a taste of the Trust Syrah. Both Jeff and I prefered the cabernet for drinking, but agreed that the syrah would go very well with the steak frites - particularly as we chose the peppercorn cognac sauce to go with the steak.
Then the entrees themselves arrived. Oh happy day! The steak was cooked medium rare, sliced and fanned on the plate next to a gorgeous pile of crispy thin fries doused in parsley and salt. The beef was tender and flavorful and really - how can you go wrong with meat and potatoes? Delicious.
The duck was a revelation. Buttery white beans with sauteed chantrelles topped by a duck leg and thigh that was absolutely falling off the bone. The skin was cooked crispy, which had rendered out the fat, and I let Jeff have that choice little tidbit. I soon discovered that the fries were especially food-coma-inducing when run through the duck sauce and topped with a bit of chantrelle. The wines were a wonderful match. As we got to the bottom of the plates all I could think was, "devo fare la scarpetta!" which is the Italian expression for sopping up a wonderful sauce with bread. So we ordered another plate of bread - which arrived warm - yum! and literally ate til we could eat no more.
Instead of dessert we picked up a bottle of Fogeron Semillion, a dessert wine produced by a local winery, and headed back to the hotel where we just in time for the complimentary warm chocolate chip cookies. We smuggled our treats down the hall to the hot tub and relaxed with our semillion and chocolate. I doubt the evening could have turned out as perfect, lovely and serendipitious if we had planned it.
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